The emergence of the bandhani fabric goes back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, which shows that the tie dye method has been in use as early as 4000 BC. The speciality of the fabric is the exceptional and highly skilled procedure.The process includes colouring a texture which is tied firmly with a string at a few points, subsequently creating an assortment of patterns like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari etc; contingent upon the way in which the fabric is tied. The fundamental shades utilized in Bandhana are yellow, red, blue, green and dark.

 The fabric is also known as Bandhej, and originated from the western parts of India, namely, Gujarat and Rajasthan. The process can differ based on the location. The word “banda” literally translates to “to tie” in Sanskrit. Kutch makes the best creatively coloured textures; Mandevi and Bhuj, which are the principle centers for production. The acclaimed gharcholas, a significant custom piece of fabric of Saurashtra, are arranged by the Khatri community group of Kutch, yet are coloured in Jamnagar in a splendid red. It is the Khatri group that make bandhanis for various networks living in the zone. The bandhanis arranged for the rich Mahajan group, are of a better plan; among the best are gharchola, a matrix design, and bavanbagh (fifty-two nurseries). Practically all Hindus use bandhani for weddings.

 The customary method followed for making bandhani is by first bleaching the fabric, collapsing it over its length and afterward over its width, therefore making four folds. The dyer next outlines an 18-inch-long (45 cm) area on one side of the width in order to cover the two parts of the fabric, which for a sari structures both the pallu, the cross fringe, and a smaller outskirt toward one side. The more extensive area is partitioned into boards, with a more extensive focal board and two smaller boards on each side. Utilizing charcoal, the dyer makes the basic structure that will be followed for tying the knots.

 At our workshops, we use this technique to create mainly suits and dupattas for our clients. Century-old techniques continue to produce some of the most artistic and exciting wares in these two states and are popular all over the world.

June 03, 2020 — Gaurang Shah